Amedeo Colella Dreams of Eating Spaghetti by the Sea
After a long career in communications, Amedeo Colella decided to dedicate himself to a new job: the Neapolitan way of living. The dream gig involves researching the cuisine, music, literature, and local dialect of Naples. He puts his findings to good use as the Naples bureau chief of Culinary Backstreets, as well as the Atlas Obscura trip leader of Culinary Naples: Producers, Purveyors, and Pizzaioli.
To walk the backstreets with Amedeo is to experience his passion for Naples, where he knows everyone by name and, best of all, where to find the best bites. While we wait until we can revisit Naples, Amedeo shares a love letter to his magnificent Italian city and its many culinary delights.
Tell us the first thing you’ll eat when restaurants open again.
I’ll order pasta and patate (potatoes) at trattoria Mangia e Bevi, a coffee at Bar San Paolo, and the babà au rhum from Capriccio Pasticceria.
Naples is the birthplace of pizza. Which pizzeria is the best?
The best pizzeria in Naples (and the world) is Gino e Toto Sorbillo. It’s located on Via dei Tribunali, which has many, many pizzerias. When you’re in the city that invented the dish, you can find amazing pizza everywhere.
What makes for a perfect Sunday in Naples?
Take a vespa ride to the sea and eat a plate of spaghetti alle vongole (with clams) in a restaurant on the beach.
What are your favorite tourist attractions in Naples?
The Pontile Nord di Bagnoli is a jetty located in the seaside quarter of Bagnoli. It’s a popular spot where you can enjoy a 3,000-foot-long walk over the sea. I also like the Cimitero Delle Fontanelle—a cemetary in a volcanic tuff cave that’s filled with folklore. In my opinion, the Certosa di San Martino—a stunning Carthusian monastery-turned-museum—houses the largest concentration of beauty in the world.
What’s your favorite family-run business in Naples?
Antica Freselleria Di Paolo dal 1834. The family has been making fresella (twice-baked bread) for more than 200 years. Fresella is popular in Italian grocery stores, but especially in Campania, the region in which Naples is located.
Where do you go for your favorite view of Naples?
From the city center, ride the Funicolare Centrale—the funicular railway of Naples—to the top of Vomero. The best view is from Belvedere San Martino, an open-air terrace at the end of Largo S. Martino.
Where do you go to escape the city?
I love Cilento, which is about 60 miles south of Naples. It’s a region full of culture, gastronomy, and, best of all, the wonderful sea. For a day trip, I go to Phlegrean Fields for archeology, myths, and legends—and good seafood on the water.
Experience Naples From Home
What books feel like stepping inside Naples?
My Brilliant Friend by Elena Ferrante
Secret Naples by Valerio Ceva Grimaldi and Maria Franchini
Così parlò Bellavista: Napoli, amore e libertà by Luciano De Crescenzo
Naples '44: An intelligence officer in the Italian labyrinth by Norman Lewis
What song reminds you most of your city?
“Napule è” from Pino Daniele’s 1977 album Terra mia.
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.
