How to Eat Like a Lisbon Local at Home
Lisbon has a long legacy in culinary inventiveness and winemaking. Yet its clattering trams, cobblestone streets, and majestic squares—and the popular Fado music—often steal the spotlight.
From the distinct cuisine of Lisbon to the tastes and tannins of Portugal’s lesser-known wine regions, there’s a lot to love. But it’s one thing to travel like a local, and another to eat like one. When it comes to ordering, it’s helpful to have an expert point you in the right direction.
We asked Atlas Obscura trip leader João Freitas how to eat like a Lisbon local. A native of Portugal, João leads our trip, Lisbon: Tracing the Roots of an Imperial Cuisine, and is a walk leader for Culinary Backstreets, too. He counts Portuguese wine among his favorite passions and loves to experiment with unusual food and wine pairings.
Read on for the goods, including wine pairings for each dish.
Sardines in Olive Oil and Piri-Piri
Canned sardines in olive oil and Piri-Piri is a popular product in Portuguese grocery stores. That’s no surprise in Portugal, which boasts the oldest continuously-operating cannery in the world. “I love to have canned sardines with sparkling wine while I’m preparing dinner,” said João, “like my father used to do.”
Wine pairing: Quinta das Bágeiras Bruto Branco
Bacalhau (Salted Cod Fish)
According to João, “there are so many recipes for bacalhau that you could prepare it differently every day for a year.” The most traditional fish in Portuguese cuisine, the texture, intense flavor, and versatility also make it unique. How does João like to prepare it? “Baked in the oven with potatoes and turnip greens.”
Wine pairing: Susana Esteban Procura Tinto
Topo São Jorge Cheese
Azores cheese is the most famous cow milk cheese in Portugal. It comes from free-range cows in the unexplored islands of the Azores, making this aged cheese a unique Portuguese product. “I like the hard, sharp, and intense flavor,” said João. “It’s perfect to pair with a full-bodied red wine.”
Wine pairing: José de Sousa Mayor Tinto
Pasteis de Nata
The Pastéis de Nata from Jerónimos Monastery in Lisbon is the country’s most famous pastry. And João agrees: “The balance between the crispy puff pastry and the egg yolk cream is perfect. I always order two—you can’t just have one.”
Wine pairing: Dona Antónia Tawny (10 Years)
We partnered with Portugalia Marketplace so you can order all of these delicacies and more. For a limited time only, Atlas Obscura readers get 10% off. Use code AOTrips at checkout.
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.
Hear the Sounds of Scotland From Home
Atlas Obscura trip leader and globe-trotting Scottish bagpiper Ross Jennings is aiming for a world record. Since 2014, he’s played the bagpipes in more than 100 countries and plans to play in them all.
If you’ve ever wanted to visit one of the most remote, peaceful places on Earth, the far-flung Scottish Highlands fit the bill. As we wait for travel to become safe again, Ross has a solution: this Thursday, March 26, at 7:30 p.m. EDT, we’ll bring the sounds of Scotland to you.
Tune in for a brief history of kilts, one of Scotland’s many cultural icons, and a tune or two on the bagpipes. Ross will also reveal all sorts of things we’ll explore in Scotland: Highland Clans and the Trail of Tartan.
To hear the sounds of Scotland, head to our Instagram account. When we’re live, the Atlas Obscura profile picture will appear with a colorful ring around it and the word Live. Tap our profile picture to view the live video. When our live stream ends, the video will be available to watch on our Stories for 24 hours before it’s gone for good.
To learn more about Ross, visit his website, The First Piper, and follow his endless Celtic musical adventure.
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.
Spice Up Your Breakfast With Chilaquiles at Home
Is there anything like the prospect of a great breakfast to make you rise and shine? According to the internet, there’s not.
In the last 30 days, there was an 80% increase in Google searches for breakfast recipes. That makes it an excellent time to get a copy of Emily Elyse Miller’s Breakfast: The Cookbook. We asked Emily to share one of her 380 recipes from around the world, and she picked chilaquiles. It’s the best way to get a taste of Layer by Layer: A Mexico City Culinary Adventure, one of our bestselling Atlas Obscura trips, at home.
“This chilaquiles recipe is to help you cope with the crushing reality that travel is at a standstill,” said Emily. “It’s a traditional Mexican breakfast, and the perfect vehicle to transport the vibrant street food culture of CDMX to your kitchen.”
What are chilaquiles?
Chilaquiles are torn corn tortillas soaked in salsa verde or salsa roja and topped with a combination of crema, chopped onion, shredded chicken, or a fried egg. Typically served with a bolillo (large hero roll), chilaquiles can also be stuffed inside the bread to create a torta de chilaquiles. These two salsas—salsa verde or salsa roja—are used to top an array of American and Mexican Southwestern breakfast items such as Huevos Rancheros, Enchiladas Montadas, and more.
How to make chilaquiles at home
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour 20 minutes
Serves: 2
8 corn tortillas, quartered
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup (240 ml/8 fl oz) Salsa Verde or Salsa Roja
2 eggs
Salt and freshly ground pepper
4 tablespoons crema
2 tablespoons crumbled Cotija cheese
1/4 small onion, diced
1/2 avocado, sliced (optional)
Cilantro (coriander) leaves, for garnish
In a large frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat. Working in two batches, add the tortilla quarters and fry until the chips are golden brown on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Transfer the chips to paper towels to drain.
In the sauce pan over medium heat, add 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the salsa and cook to warm through. Add the chips and stir to coat with the salsa.
Meanwhile, in a small frying pan, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Crack in the eggs and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 1 minute and reduce the heat to low. Cook until the white is set and the edges are golden and crispy, about 2 minutes more. In the last 30 seconds of cooking, use a spoon to baste the egg white with the hot oil, helping to finish cooking the white. Transfer the fried eggs to a plate using a spatula.
To serve, spoon the chips and salsa on 2 plates. Top with the fried eggs, crema, Cotija, onion, avocado (if using), and cilantro (coriander).
Notes: You could use 20 store-bought unsalted thick-cut tortilla chips in place of the tortillas. Just skip the first frying step and warm the chips in the salsa as directed. As a substitute for crema, combine 2 tablespoons sour cream and 2 tablespoons heavy (whipping) cream, 1/2 teaspoon of lime juice, and a pinch of salt.
Emily Elyse Miller, author of Phaidon’s Breakfast: The Cookbook, is a renowned authority on breakfast. Through her BreakfastClub series, she’s led more than 40 events in a dozen cities around the world, hosts breakfast walking tours, and writes global trend reports for leading publications.
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.
National Parks Experts Teach Us to Examine Our Yards, Parks, and Houseplants
Emily Hoff and Maygen Keller’s fantastic new book, Scenic Science of the National Parks, gives explorers a new way to examine the natural world. It’s a guide that invites park-lovers to peel back the many layers of our landscape to find the lesser-known flora, fauna, and geological formations that surround us. While the national parks are off limits for now, Emily and Maygen (who also lead Atlas Obscura’s trip Desert Astronomy: Canyonlands & Arches) are here to share some tips for exploring nature from home.
Many of us are getting very familiar with the views from our windows. Are there any observation or learning techniques we can use while indoors?
The same things that make for good observation skills in wild landscapes—looking closely and training yourself to notice details— work just as well in your backyard and your living room. Paying attention to little shifts and how conditions change over time is something that can teach you a lot— and right now, like it or not, most of us are in the same place nearly all the time. So start observing! Name the colors in each room as the light changes. Or start an experiment involving playing classical music to your house plants for 20 minutes a day. What species of tree is outside your window? What kinds of bird song can you hear? Once you actually start to take notice of what’s around you, you’ll find all sorts of things to explore.
What about while walking through our neighborhood green spaces?
Now is a great time to get familiar with the species of trees that grow in your local parks and along your streets. In many parts of the country, trees are starting to leaf out and the first flowers of the season are up. That’s a great time to try your hand at some tree identification. Challenge yourself to think of your neighborhood as part of the natural world— it is after all! Find out what plants and animals make up your local ecosystem. Have you ever looked at what kind of moss and lichen grow on the trees near you? There are little things to explore everywhere!
Two pieces of equipment you recommend in your book are binoculars and a magnifying glass for seeing small details on plants and rocks. How do I use this equipment on the rocks and trees in my yard, or on my houseplants?
Grab your loupe or magnifying glass and go to town on the plants, your furniture, your snacks, and anything (or anyone!) else you can get to sit still long enough to get a good gander at! Looking closely at anything is usually a gateway to cool sights and more questions. Dive in! Binoculars are another great tool for honing your ability to look. You can use binoculars to get a good look at tree leaves that are too high up to ID from the sidewalk or at bird’s nest, or even a real freaking bird. This time of year is great for birds, especially for those of you who live along migration routes—binoculars are great for observing those winged little dinosaurs. And you can use them to look at the night sky too! A good pair of binoculars is as good or even better than most small telescopes.
For the time being, armchair travel is our soundest portal to the world. What are your favorite resources for enjoying the national parks from home?
One of the bright sides of this awful situation is the real boom in online content aimed at helping folks armchair travel. Google has a couple cool initiatives aimed at letting viewers explore the park that are worth checking out and many individual parks are taking matters into their own hands as well. Yellowstone has been posting virtual junior ranger activities and they even issued a ‘virtual visitor passport stamp.’ Pandemically charming! Lots of webcams have gone up recently too. If there is a park that’s calling your name, hop onto their social media and see what’s up. Lastly, this is a great time to do some learning about the historic and modern Native groups associated with the locations of your favorite parks. If we truly want to respect and celebrate these landscapes, we need to involve the people that have stewarded them for millennia.
Scenic Science of the National Parks centers around storytelling, and the endless stories unfolding across the parks. Have you uncovered any surprising stories about your own local landscapes?
I (Maygen) have been interested in the geology of my town (Minneapolis) after learning so much in the parks. It’s fascinating to be able to visit parks in the area and see evidence of glaciation, including glacial erratics, which are massive, seemingly out of place boulders that look like they were plopped there by heavy machinery. In fact, they were brought down from northern Minnesota and Canada by glaciers, and when the glaciers retreated (melted), erratics were left behind. It’s also been fun to learn about which lakes were man-made or modified and which have been here for thousands of years.
As a dedicated New York City dweller, I (Emily) delight in experiencing the natural side of my city. There are hundreds of thousands of trees along nearly every stretch of sidewalk in this city (see them all on this interactive map!) and most of them are one of 20 or so species. I of course know most of the trees in my neighborhood like old friends now. Learn even a few easy tree species to ID and I guarantee your social-distance walks will get much more interesting!
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.
Oaxaca at Home: Two Soulful Recipes for Mexican Comfort Food
Mother-daughter duo Iliana de la Vega and Isabel Torrealba are a powerhouse of Oaxacan culinary knowledge. Celebrated chef Iliana is a James Beard-nominated whiz in the kitchen, while food writer Isabel has a master’s degree in cultural reporting. Together they lead Oaxaca: Tastes of Past and Present.
Ahead of our next trip to Oaxaca, Iliana shares some recipes that will bring the Mexican culinary capital to your kitchen—and Isabel writes about what makes her mom’s cooking so unique.
It’s nearly impossible to talk about my mother’s cooking without sounding biased. We’re all trained to love the food we grew up eating—our taste buds adapt to those flavors, which feel and taste like home and comfort. My mother’s cooking, however, has this effect on anyone who takes a bite of her guacamole, enchiladas, or one of her delightful moles. Even if her Oaxacan recipes are unfamiliar, her food has a way of bringing comfort to those who try it. There’s a sense of warmth and care to her cooking that’s hard to explain, but easy to understand if you meet her and allow her to feed you.
My mother’s cooking is honest, in the sense that you can taste all the ingredients in it. Eating her food is a layered experience, with every bite bringing a delicate new flavor and sensation. Take her sopa de frijol negro a la Oaxaqueña (Oaxacan black bean soup). The first bite will be a strong taste of black beans, but then there’s the crunch and subtle flavor of the fried corn tortilla strips. Next, in the back of your throat, there’s a hint of smoky spice from the pasilla chiles. And then an herbal note only an Oaxacan native will recognize as the avocado leaves. The cream, cheese, and avocado tie all of it together, creating a perfectly balanced soup. Balance is another word that describes my mother’s food and approach to cooking.
It’s hard to pinpoint exactly what makes my mother’s food so comforting. Maybe it’s the fact that she makes elegant versions of Mexican home cooking. Or perhaps that she treats each ingredient carefully and with respect. Perhaps it’s that she genuinely enjoys bringing joy to people through her food. I also suspect it has something to do with my mother being self-taught. She learned to cook from her mother and her aunt, as most Mexican women traditionally do. But for my mother, cooking was more than just a way to feed her family—it’s her passion. And while my food isn’t as magical as hers, her philosophy of cooking with care, always intending to bring joy to others, is something I keep in mind whenever I’m in the kitchen.
Sopa de Frijol Negro a la Oaxaqueña
Serves: 8
Ingredients:
3 tbsp. canola oil
2 thick slices white onion
1 garlic clove, peeled
4 avocado leaves
2–4 Oaxacan pasilla chiles, clean reconstituted in hot water*
4 cups cooked black beans (with some broth)
6 cups water
Salt to taste
Garnishes:
10 corn tortillas
1 cup canola oil
8 ounces panela cheese (or queso fresco) diced
1 avocado, diced
1/3 cup crema Mexicana
In a stockpot heat 3 tbsp. oil, add the onion and garlic and sauté until soft and golden. Remove and discard onion and garlic. Reserve the flavored oil.
Place avocado leaves in a small skillet, heat up until fragrant; transfer them to the blender, along with 2 chiles pasilla, 1 cup of beans and 1½ cups water and process until very smooth. You can also pass it through a strainer, adding water if needed.
Warm up the seasoned oil over medium-low heat, add the pureed beans. Continue blending beans in batches and adding to the stockpot. Season with salt, and check for chile flavor, adding more blended chiles if needed.
Cut the tortillas in julienne. Heat the oil in a sauté pan; when sizzling hot, add the tortillas in batches, removing with a slotted spoon when crispy and slightly golden. Place over a rack to drain excess oil.
Serve hot, topped with the fried tortillas, garnish with, the cheese, avocado, and crema.
*Substitute with morita chiles or chipotles if pasillas are not available.
Mole Amarillo con Camarones
Serves: 6
Ingredients:
6 large green tomatoes
10 tomatillos
1/2 white onion
4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
2 Ancho chiles, seeds and veins removed
12 Guajillo chiles, seeds and veins removed
1 tsp. cumin seeds
8 black peppercorns
4 cloves, whole
1/2 cup masa harina flour
1/2 bunch cilantro, tied in a bundle
2 tbsp. canola oil
1 tbsp. olive oil
1 chayote
1/2 lb. green beans
36 large (13/15) shrimp, peeled and deveined
Gently dry roast the chiles on a comal or skillet set over medium heat for a few seconds until aromatic. Soak the chiles in hot water for 15 minutes, drain and set aside.
Dry roast the green tomatoes, tomatillos, and onion on a comal or skillet over medium heat. Keep turning until soft and blistered, about 15 minutes. Dry roast the garlic separately over low heat. When brown spots appear on the papery skin, remove the garlic and discard the skin.
In a small skillet dry roast the black pepper, cloves, and cumin until fragrant.
Puree the chiles in the blender, adding water as needed, to form a smooth puree. Pass the chile puree through a fine mesh strainer and set aside.
In same blender, puree the dry roasted vegetables and spices with water, as needed, to form a smooth puree. Pass through a small mesh sieve and set aside.
Heat 2 tablespoons canola oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium low, add and fry the chile puree until most of the liquid evaporates, when you can see the bottom of the pan when scraped and the oil rises to the top.
Add the pureed vegetable mixture and stir occasionally until reduced over medium heat. Once the mole covers the back of a spoon, and you can see the bottom of the pan when scraped, add 2 cups of water.
In a small bowl mix ½ cup of the masa with 1 cup water. The mixture should be very smooth - no lumps. Add the masa mixture to the mole in a steady stream, stirring constantly while pouring. Cook the mole for 5 minutes, add the cilantro and season with salt.
In a medium saucepan bring 2 ½ quarts of water to a boil. Add salt to taste and cook the chayote until it turns bright green, about 5 minutes. Remove and immerse the chayote in an ice bath. Remove the core, and slice lengthwise.
In the same boiling water cook the green beans al dente. Remove and immerse in an ice bath.
Season the shrimp with salt; heat the olive oil in a sauté pan and sauté the shrimp until done.
Garnish the mole amarillo with rajas de chile con limón and serve with white rice and warm corn tortillas.
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.
Meet the Female Pizzaioli of Naples
It doesn’t hurt to be a famous pizzaiolo, but culinary expertise isn’t required to have some fun in Italy. No one knows this better than Livia Hengel, an Italian-American journalist based in Rome. She once moved to Naples for a couple of months to meet the city’s pizzaioli and eat their life-changing pies.
“Back in 2018, I spent two months eating my way through Naples on a quest to uncover the city’s best pizza,” said Livia. “A pizza isn’t just a pizza in Naples. A simple Margherita is a work of art—skillfully kneaded, seasoned, and baked by one of many talented pizzaioli.” If two months sounds crazy, think again. There are more than 8,000 pizzerias in Naples, and UNESCO even recognized the longstanding tradition of Neapolitan pizza making as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage program.
What was Livia’s favorite discovery? “The city’s celebrated female pizzaioli. They adeptly flip and fry the lesser-known pizza fritta—half-moon pies filled with ricotta, crispy bits of bacon, and deep-fried on the spot.”
Keep scrolling for a virtual taste of Culinary Naples: Producers, Purveyors, and Pizzaioli, an Atlas Obscura trip departing this fall.
Margherita and Marinara may be the classic Neapolitan pizzas, but Salsiccia and Friarielli (sausage and broccoli rabe) is a popular flavor combination at Concettina ai Tre Santi. LIVIA HENGEL
The popularity of Concettina ai Tre Santi has helped put Rione Sanità, a colorful yet historically maligned neighborhood, on the map. LIVIA HENGEL
For decades, Da Fernanda has been frying up pizza fritta out of a small storefront in Quartieri Spagnoli. LIVIA HENGEL
Fernanda’s famous €3 fried pizza pockets come stuffed with ricotta, cicoli (fatty pork bits), tomato sauce, and black pepper. LIVIA HENGEL
A popular pizzeria in the centro storico, La Figlia del Presidente serves fragrant fried pizzas and fluffy pies. LIVIA HENGEL
A true matriarch, Maria Cacialli of La Figlia del Presidente oversees a full squad of pizzaioli—all of them men—including her husband and son. LIVIA HENGEL
The Margherita at Le Figlie di Iorio. It was invented in the 1800s to honor the Queen of Italy, Margherita of Savoy, by using ingredients that represent the Italian flag: tomatoes (red), mozzarella (white), and basil (green). LIVIA HENGEL
Teresa Iorio, the 19th of 20 children, followed in her father's footsteps and has become one of the city’s most famous female pizzaioli at Le Figlie di Iorio. LIVIA HENGEL
Sorbillo is arguably the most popular pizzeria in Naples. It’s not uncommon to line up for hours to snag a coveted seat inside. LIVIA HENGEL
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.
Seeking Peace in the Scottish Highlands
Last September, Atlas Obscura traveler Janis Schubert visited the Scottish Highlands and wrote about a moment of surprising peace. Since then, the world has changed a great deal, but moments of serenity are more important than ever. Janis’s experience from Scotland: Highland Clans and the Trail of Tartan is a reminder that we can try to seek peace in small ways, like on a morning walk through a garden.
My normal life in the southwestern U.S. tends to be fairly stressful, with a demanding job taking up most of my time and energy. When I planned this trip to Scotland, I wasn’t sure I could turn it all off and just sit back and enjoy the ride. During our three-day stay at Assynt House near Inverness, a city at the heart of the Highlands, I found the answer to that question.
There was something almost magical about the place. I felt connected to the 18th century history. Each morning, thanks to our guide Ross Jennings, we were met with the sound of bagpipes.
The food was wonderful, as was the camaraderie. The lush grounds and beautiful Scottish Highland setting felt like another world. It was as if my other life no longer existed, or was so far away it was of no consequence!
On the morning we were set to depart, I got up early and walked through the gardens in the misty dawn. I saw several deer silently bounding through the nearby woods, sheep grazing on the hillside, and flowers greeting the dawn. It was the most peaceful and contented feeling I have felt in a long time and it made this trip especially memorable. In my mind, I can go back to that morning in Scotland and feel that peace again. I can’t wait to return and explore more of this beautiful country!
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.
6 Tips for Better Travel Photos
As travel becomes more accessible, travel photography continues to grow in popularity. Yet many underestimate the depth and challenges associated with this unassuming genre. We asked the experts at SLR Lounge to share the tips you need to take better travel photos.
Today’s best travel photographers are also proficient travelers. They navigate locations and cultures as nimbly and skillfully as they do their cameras. From portraits to landscapes and beyond, these six tips will make you a better photographer—and a better traveler.
Tip 1: Research Your Destination
When visiting a destination for the first time, get the lay of the land online. It may seem obvious, but no two cultures are exactly alike and many will be very different than your own. Read up on the area to familiarize yourself with the customs and rules, especially about photography. Do the locals frown upon strangers photographing them? Is it downright illegal to take photos of the local sites—or at all?
Once you know the ground rules, you can boost your creativity. Search Google Images, Instagram, and Pinterest to see how others have captured the location. If you notice a popular image appearing again and again, start thinking about how you’ll shoot that same location in a different way.
Tip 2: Join a Traveling Group or Take a Predesigned Tour
Leave the itineraries and daily schedules to the travel pros. The more you rely on the expertise of a tour guide, the more you can focus on capturing incredible photos.
Photography-centric group travel will allow you exclusive access to a destination. These tours include local experts and technical guidance from experienced travel photographers. Check out the upcoming photography trips on Atlas Obscura.
Tip 3: Pack Accordingly for Your Shoot
This goes beyond general travel regulations and carry-on limitations. Will you be walking a lot, or will you remain stationary in a few locations? Will you be shooting during the day or at night? Inside or outside? The answer to each of these questions is a different type and amount of gear.
For example, to photograph desert sculptures in Borrego Springs by night, you’ll need a tripod and spare batteries. Capturing several long exposures for nightscape photography can quickly consume your battery power. When shooting the Avenue of Baobabs in Madagascar during the day, take a wide-angle lens, such as a 20mm prime or a 16-35mm zoom, to photograph the epic landscape. And don't forget to bring a telephoto lens to photograph the lemurs. Any 70-300mm or 100-400mm lens will give you a great value. Whatever the case, be prepared to take the appropriate gear for a given destination.
Tip 4: Maximize Dynamic Range
Wherever you travel, shoot in RAW and maximize your dynamic range. Dynamic range is the range from the brightest (highlights) to the darkest (shadows) visible area of an image. The more shadows and highlights you capture, the more detailed your image will be. This also gives you more flexibility when editing your images.
Tip 5: Learn the Rules of Composition
Whether you’re capturing something ordinary or extraordinary, remember to follow the rules of composition.
Rule of Thirds
The rule of thirds divides an image evenly into thirds, both horizontally and vertically. The idea is to place the subject or focal point of your image along one of the lines, preferably where two lines intersect.
Another way to use the rule of thirds in travel photography is to place the horizon along one of the horizontal lines.
Natural Frames
Look for a frame within your scene. It can be a window or doorway, or an overhanging branch from a tree. Place your subjects within a frame to enhance the visual aesthetic of your photo and further draw focus to the subject.
Negative Space
Negative space, also known as white space, is the space around and between the subject. More negative, or open space, means fewer distracting elements to take the focus off your subject.
Leading Lines
As the name implies, leading lines lead the eye through a scene and give depth to an image. Common lines include roads, fences, buildings, rivers, and shorelines. They can, for example, connect the foreground to the background, or draw attention to a subject.
Before you set up a shot, scout the scene for these lines. Some are obvious while others are hiding in plain sight. You may need to spend time searching for the best perspective, but leading lines are sure to enhance your travel photos.
Perfect Symmetry
Look for examples of perfect symmetry to enhance the visual appeal of your travel photos. In urban settings, look for symmetrical design in vertical architecture. Besides balancing your composition, it highlights a building’s shape, size, and design.
Combine Two or More of the “Rules” Above
Challenge yourself to go beyond the basics and combine two or more rules in a single image. The rules help create strong images, so combining them creates even stronger images.
Tip 6: Incorporate Local People or Animals
You can find photos of famous landmarks from every angle imaginable. Adding people or animals to the mix can make a photo dynamic and unrepeatable. The subjects can also add a story to the image and bring it to life.
Ready to hone your skills? SLR Lounge's photography workshops will teach you everything you need to know before your trip. Whether you're traveling to the far corners of the world or somewhere closer to home, make sure you return with enduring, once-in-a-lifetime images.
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.
Emily Hoff Finds Inspiration in Street Trees and Whiskey Shots
When Emily Hoff took a job in New York in 2012, she wasn’t so sure about moving to the city. But five days in, she called her family and told them to send the rest of her things. Emily fell in love with the “energy, creativity, and weirdos” of the city. Eight years later, she remains energized by the big, creative things happening in the Big Apple, the place she’s made her home.
A museum curator with a dual Masters in History and Museum Studies, Emily has worked with some of the most prominent museums in New York. At the American Museum of Natural History, she curated an exhibit on Pterosaurs, the flying reptiles that lived alongside the dinosaurs. This year, Emily co-authored the book Scenic Science of the National Parks. From her Brooklyn apartment, Emily shares what makes her city so dazzling.
Tell us the first thing you’ll eat when restaurants open again.
Believe it or not, I’m heading right to Times Square to eat at one of my favorite spots in the city—Gyu Kaku, a Japanese barbecue joint. I’m going to grill piles of delicious pieces of meat, eat garlic noodles until they are coming out of my pores, order more dumplings than should be allowed, and drink oh-so-many way-too-cheap and way-too-big glasses of wine. In the before times, my side hustle was leading walking tours, and the Times Square Gyu Kaku (there are a few others in NYC) was one of our stops. I got to know the staff, and I miss them terribly! Even when I was running tours every day, I still ate everything on offer at Gyu Kaku—I could skip any stop, but not that one!
What three things make for a perfect New York Sunday?
A fresh copy of the New York Times to hunt and peck my way through (front page section, book review, arts, metropolitan, real estate, crossword…usually in that order), a bright sunny day with big white puffy clouds, and a prime spot in a park—dappled sunlight and lots of dogs walking by, please. I guess for it to be perfect, we should add a bottle of wine or some to-go Aperol spritzes. Oh my god, and a doubles or four.
What do you love most about your neighborhood?
I live in a small three-unit building across the street from a massive public housing development. In the warmer months, folks spend pretty much all day out in front of the building, cooking food, socializing, and playing music. The music is my favorite part—I joke that from May until October, my roommates and I never have to turn music on in the living room. Just open the windows and see what’s cranking. I love it!
What New York tourist site do you still love?
After all these years, I am still massively obsessed with all the glorious bridges in this town. They are just so beautiful, and I’m totally in love with all of NYC’s water. You’ll find me in water-adjacent parks and on NYC ferries in all kinds of weather. I’ve transferred subway trains unnecessarily just so I can go over a bridge and look at the other ones—it’s that level of dedication. If you need me, I’ll be the weirdo with my nose pressed against the train door windows.
Where do you go for your favorite view of New York?
The Staten Island Ferry (see my obsession with water above)— I call it the best dive bar in NYC. The drinks are cheap—I’m partial to a tall boy of White Claw, myself—and the views are truly breathtaking. People sometimes look at me funny when I say that, but once you’ve felt the harbor wind on your face while staring right at Lady Liberty and drinking out of a brown paper bag, you will know what I mean. Plus, the people watching never disappoints.
Where do you go for a moment of peace?
I’ll admit to being as stir-crazy as anyone at this point, but my peace is always my home. It’s my little corner of all of this craziness. I love being surrounded by my books and having a quiet place to work, relax, and hang out. Plus, I’m fortunate to have access to a backyard with green space and plenty of sunlight. If it’s warm enough, you can bet I’m considering firing up the grill.
Experience New York From Home
What book feels like stepping inside your city?
New York Diaries— it’s a chronological (January 1–December 31) compilation of dozens of diaries kept by New Yorkers of all eras and stripes from citizen bloggers in the aftermath of 9/11 back to Henry Hudson’s crew. Okay, they weren’t New Yorkers, but you get my drift (pun intended). I read the whole thing cover to cover years ago. Now, I go back and flip to specific days—like today’s date or my birthday—just to see what was going on in 1780, 1847, 1990, or whenever. The longest entry on my birthday is Simone de Beauvoir trying out “jazz cigarettes” for the first time. That feels right.
What songs remind you of New York?
“Living for the City” by Stevie Wonder
“My Metrocard” by Le Tigre
“Shattered” by The Rolling Stones
“New York, New York” by Frank Sinatra (I mean, c’mon!)
“Rhapsody in Blue” by George Gershwin
“Pigeon” by Cannibal Ox
“The Bridge” by Sonny Rollins
What are your three favorite places in New York from our Atlas?
City Hall Station—I adore the subway. It’s sprawling and chaotic, and being able to navigate it feels like knowing another language or being able to solve complex calculus equations. Our subway, like the rest of the city, is more or less one giant, cobbled together Rube Goldberg Machine, and I’m just as fascinated by the parts that have gone obsolete as I am the parts that still function. An old empty station with beautiful decorations that I can gawk at from an empty train car? That’s a yes for me!
Broken Kilometer/ Earth Room—These sites are indicative to me of all the weird, fantastic, brain-tickling art tucked into all sorts of spaces all over town. These are two more well-known examples, but there are very few places you can visit in NYC and not be near some kind of visual art—learning to look for and find those moments is a fascinating part of getting to know this city.
Prison Ship Martyrs Monument—New York’s role in the American Revolution isn’t as broadly known as it should be (what part of U.S. history is?). Still, this city was central to the war and the highly imperfect nation-building that followed. That more people died on the prison ships the British anchored in the East River than in any battle is a mind-boggling statistic. The monument itself is beautiful, and the views into Manhattan are great, but what gets me every time is that this location isn’t some random, idyllic spot. The land that now makes up Fort Greene Park was where the Continental Forces retreated after losing the rest of Long Island. It’s where they planned their daring and ludicrous escape across the East River. I love to walk around imagining soldiers trying to sneak off with campfires still burning and the British edging ever closer. What a place!
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.
See the Millions of Migrating Butterflies That Transform This Mexican Forest
At the end of each North American summer, one of the world’s most astounding migrations begins: Millions upon millions of monarch butterflies make their way from Canada and the United States to an expanse of forest in central Mexico. They settle on oyamel fir trees by the thousands—weighing down branches and blanketing the forest floor. With their arrival, the forest turns a stunning shade of orange.
The 2,800-mile journey takes the butterflies around three months, which makes it the longest insect migration in the world. These monarchs are also the only butterflies known to make a round trip. Around March, they head back north guided by the earth’s magnetic field, the sun’s position, and other internal and external compasses that scientists are still trying to understand.
In February, Atlas Obscura took a handful of travelers to behold Mexico’s Great Monarch Butterfly Migration. Treading silently among the magnificent creatures, Atlas Obscura trip leaders Phil Torres and Becky Friesen guided travelers through the butterflies’ winter habitat: a 200 square mile nature reserve called the Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve.
Lucky for us, Phil also happens to be an amazing photographer. Here’s some of what they saw.
A lone butterfly in the El Rosario Sanctuary in Michoacán. PHIL TORRES
A flurry of neon wings on the fir branches. PHIL TORRES
Every year, the butterflies take up residence in the same forest of pine and oyamel fir trees. PHIL TORRES
Butterflies on the forest floor. PHIL TORRES
The millions of butterflies with turn around and make the trip back north. PHIL TORRES
Our group of butterfly enthusiasts in the Sierra Chincua Butterfly Sanctuary. PHIL TORRES
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.
Dissecting Gelatin Brains in a London Pub
What do you most look forward to after a relaxing dinner? In London, Guerilla Science serves a surprise scientific dessert activity. Atlas Obscura traveler and physician Lynn Eckhert shares a moment from London Science Weekend.
On our first night, while eating dinner upstairs at a pub, our guides announced a surprise dessert. They passed out masks, gloves, bibs, scalpels (knives), and little instruments for scooping. Then came the creamy pink gelatin brains on plates. They asked someone at each table to be the surgeon. At my table, I was the surgeon.
At the front of the room, a real neurosurgeon set up a table with his gelatin brain. A camera projected it onto a TV screen.
Like me, some of the surgeons who attended the event are real-life physicians. So when the brain projected on the screen was in reverse—like an X-ray—it wasn’t a problem to follow along.
The neurosurgeon explained the different parts of the brain—the frontal lobe, cerebellum, cerebrum, and brainstem—and what they do. Once you cut into the brain, you saw ventricles made with clear red gelatin.
We weren’t trying to get out a tumor or embolism or anything. We dissected the parts of the brain as the neurosurgeon described them.
In the end, you could eat the brain—they billed it as the dessert—but it wasn’t so attractive. You could slice it so that you got part of the brain and part of the ventricles, but no one wanted any.
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.
4 Ways to Spend Summer on the Water
You can beat the winter blues by booking a summer trip to an island. But going beyond the beach will reveal something new and unexpected about these warm-weather destinations. We’ll show you all that’s wondrous under the sun. Whether you want to sail a catamaran around Sardinia or cruise through the Arctic in an expedition ship, here’s how to experience the spectacular corners of the natural world by water.
Sailing Sardinia’s Hidden Coastlines
This summer, we’re spending a week Sailing Sardinia’s Hidden Coastlines. From the 46-foot catamaran, we’ll swim to remote beaches and discover hidden wonders.
Heart of the Arctic: Expedition Cruise
Journey with scientists, historians, and artists to three distinct Arctic regions. The Heart of the Arctic Expedition Cruise will take us to deep fjords and vibrant communities.
Nova Scotia: Maritime Lyrics & Lore
Wade through the mythos of the shores of Nova Scotia. From a poetry reading to a sea shanty or two, we'll cast an ear to the pulsing maritime melodies on Nova Scotia: Maritime Lyrics and Lore.
Forgotten Greece
Greece is more than ancient history and mythology. On Forgotten Greece, we’ll visit creaking ship graveyards, underground tunnels, and abandoned industrial towns.
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.
Amedeo Colella Dreams of Eating Spaghetti by the Sea
After a long career in communications, Amedeo Colella decided to dedicate himself to a new job: the Neapolitan way of living. The dream gig involves researching the cuisine, music, literature, and local dialect of Naples. He puts his findings to good use as the Naples bureau chief of Culinary Backstreets, as well as the Atlas Obscura trip leader of Culinary Naples: Producers, Purveyors, and Pizzaioli.
To walk the backstreets with Amedeo is to experience his passion for Naples, where he knows everyone by name and, best of all, where to find the best bites. While we wait until we can revisit Naples, Amedeo shares a love letter to his magnificent Italian city and its many culinary delights.
Tell us the first thing you’ll eat when restaurants open again.
I’ll order pasta and patate (potatoes) at trattoria Mangia e Bevi, a coffee at Bar San Paolo, and the babà au rhum from Capriccio Pasticceria.
Naples is the birthplace of pizza. Which pizzeria is the best?
The best pizzeria in Naples (and the world) is Gino e Toto Sorbillo. It’s located on Via dei Tribunali, which has many, many pizzerias. When you’re in the city that invented the dish, you can find amazing pizza everywhere.
What makes for a perfect Sunday in Naples?
Take a vespa ride to the sea and eat a plate of spaghetti alle vongole (with clams) in a restaurant on the beach.
What are your favorite tourist attractions in Naples?
The Pontile Nord di Bagnoli is a jetty located in the seaside quarter of Bagnoli. It’s a popular spot where you can enjoy a 3,000-foot-long walk over the sea. I also like the Cimitero Delle Fontanelle—a cemetary in a volcanic tuff cave that’s filled with folklore. In my opinion, the Certosa di San Martino—a stunning Carthusian monastery-turned-museum—houses the largest concentration of beauty in the world.
What’s your favorite family-run business in Naples?
Antica Freselleria Di Paolo dal 1834. The family has been making fresella (twice-baked bread) for more than 200 years. Fresella is popular in Italian grocery stores, but especially in Campania, the region in which Naples is located.
Where do you go for your favorite view of Naples?
From the city center, ride the Funicolare Centrale—the funicular railway of Naples—to the top of Vomero. The best view is from Belvedere San Martino, an open-air terrace at the end of Largo S. Martino.
Where do you go to escape the city?
I love Cilento, which is about 60 miles south of Naples. It’s a region full of culture, gastronomy, and, best of all, the wonderful sea. For a day trip, I go to Phlegrean Fields for archeology, myths, and legends—and good seafood on the water.
Experience Naples From Home
What books feel like stepping inside Naples?
My Brilliant Friend by Elena Ferrante
Secret Naples by Valerio Ceva Grimaldi and Maria Franchini
Così parlò Bellavista: Napoli, amore e libertà by Luciano De Crescenzo
Naples '44: An intelligence officer in the Italian labyrinth by Norman Lewis
What song reminds you most of your city?
“Napule è” from Pino Daniele’s 1977 album Terra mia.
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.
An Inside Look at the Art of Chernobyl
The Chernobyl Exclusion Zone is the protected area around the infamous power plant. It includes Pripyat, a ghost city left abandoned after the disaster. But the 20-mile radius also contains stunning, surprising, and often sobering art. Some murals date back to before the 1986 explosion and remain frozen in time. Other works have popped up in the decades since. It's a mix of art created with and without the permission of local authorities.
Atlas Obscura travelers snapped these art photos on our Chernobyl by Day, Kyiv by Night trip. These works offer a glimpse into the society that once thrived here. But they also reveal something new about the locals who have since returned.
A mural painted before 1986, found near a complex for children.
A mural erected before 1986, found next to a pool in the Palace of Culture.
A mural believed to be painted post-1986, found near the Pripyat amusement park.
A mural erected in 2016 by Australian artist Guido van Helten, in honor of Russian photographer Igor Kostin. Before his death in 2015, Kostin spent decades photographing post-disaster Chernobyl. This mural, which was approved by Chernobyl’s administration, is a reproduction of a Kostin photograph. It can be found inside the cooling tower adjacent to Chernobyl’s unfinished Block Five.
According to trip leader Darmon Richter, an unauthorized artist painted these orange characters in the spring of 2019. Richter, who was likely the first person to play Pokemon Go in Chernobyl, hypothesizes that the character in the white hat might be based on him.
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.
The Elusive Search for China’s Forbidden City Oreos
Chinese Oreos? They're a thing. And we know where to find them. Atlas Obscura traveler Sharyne Tu shares a moment from China: The Great Cuisines of the Middle Kingdom.
It began in the city of Qingdao when one of the travelers bought rose-flavored Oreos to share on the bus. It was such an interesting flavor that we looked it up. It turns out that Oreo makes a select line of cookies called Forbidden City, sold only in China. The flavors were sweet, savory, and very enticing: Lychee Rose Cake, Green Tea Cake, Red Bean Cake, Hawthorn Berry, Cantonese Barbeque Pork Pastry, and Spicy Pepper Pastry.
In each city we visited, we raided convenience stores and hunted for the special Oreos. In Qufu, our search produced a red bean flavor and nothing else. On our quests for these Oreos, we found other exciting snacks, too. We tried spicy ice cream cones, coriander pretzels, and red wine Pocky. There were also cool peach Snickers, which create an icy sensation in your mouth. Pumpkin Spice Lay's chips were not a hit. The taro flavored Lay’s weren’t too bad. (I still need to open the braised beef.) But the Forbidden City Oreos continued to elude us.
Then, alas! At our last stop in Guangzhou, our luck changed. There were Oreos! Big boxes and small boxes in every flavor. We were finally happy campers! I filled my return luggage with Oreo boxes.
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.
5 Trips We Can’t Wait to Take Again in 2020
We led more than 70 amazing trips around the world in 2019, and we’ll offer some of the bestsellers again this year. From the Eternal City's secret views to the curious monarch migration in North America, check out these five moments we can’t wait to repeat in 2020.
Peek through the Aventine Keyhole in Rome
The Aventine, one of the seven famous hills of Rome, contains a nondescript green door with a secret keyhole. On Rome Behind Locked Doors, we visit Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta, which is home to the Maltese embassy. While the embassy’s garden is private, a peek through the keyhole reveals a picture-perfect view of St. Peter’s Basilica.
Witness Mexico’s Monarch Butterfly Migration
Upon first glance, the oyamel fir trees of Central Mexico may appear orange. Take a moment to look closer—it’s millions of monarch butterflies. Scientists don’t yet know why the monarchs migrate the way they do. One thing we know after Mexico’s Great Monarch Butterfly Migration: Central Mexico is the best place to witness this grand spectacle of nature.
Follow the Trail of Tartan Through the Scottish Highlands
Search the Scottish Highlands, and you’ll find more than wild landscapes. Its crumbling castles and windswept beaches are the stuff of legends, but so is the tartan, its most significant cultural icon. Scotland: Highland Clans and the Trail of Tartan will take you to this far-flung corner of Europe, where we visit Kinloch Anderson, the oldest and most revered kilt-makers.
Put a Tailless Whip Scorpion On Your Face in the Amazon
It isn’t venomous, and it’s not a scorpion. But would you let a tailless whip scorpion roam freely on your face? These brave travelers who embarked with us on Expedition Amazon did. It’s just one way we enjoyed one of the world’s most remote rainforests and its incredible wildlife on expert-led night hikes.
Trace the Roots of Lisbon’s Imperial Cuisine
Lisbon: Tracing the Roots of an Imperial Cuisine reveals the city’s long legacy of culinary ingenuity. We visit kitchens stocked with spices and charming fish restaurants by the docks. Outside the city, in the Alentejo region, we eat fresh bread, Iberian ham, and drink lesser-known wines. And then there’s the crown jewel of the Portuguese pastry pantheon: the pastel de nata. Need we say more?
By Nick Papa
I’m the editor of the Atlas Obscura trips blog. I talk to our trip leaders, travelers, and friends in the industry about how they explore the world’s wondrous places.