Chef Will Harris Dishes on Mushrooms
Originally published on Life Stories.
When it comes to mushrooms, people either love them or fear them. Chef Will Harris, who helms the kitchen at Wildflower in Denver, says there's a mushroom dish for everyone.
By Nick Papa
There are two types of people: mycophiles, those who love mushrooms, and mycophobes, those who fear them. Will Harris, the chef of Wildflower at Life House Lower Highlands, is decidedly a mycophile. Before you write off the fungi, Harris promises there's a mushroom option for you on Wildflower’s menu.
WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO COOK WITH MUSHROOMS?
When I became a cook after high school, my mentor taught me to cook and sauté mushrooms properly. It was a mind-blowing experience. I heated a pan and threw in a bunch of mushrooms. It sounded simple. But he dumped it out and told me to start over with small batches in a super hot pan.
I still use the techniques I learned that day. I add a little bit of oil, and when I add the mushrooms to the pan, I don't salt them right away. I let them get a bit of color, and once they start to sear, I hit them with a bit of salt, fresh herbs, and shallots.
Mushrooms are great because of their richness and umami (savory taste). There are so many varieties and different ways to prepare them. Every time I "butcher" a mushroom, I discover a new way to use it.
TELL US MORE ABOUT THE DIFFERENT MUSHROOM VARIETIES AND WAYS TO USE THEM.
One of my favorites is the King Trumpet mushroom. I treat it like a steak, grilling it and then slowly roasting it. You cook the trunk one way—almost like the piece of meat. Then you can pickle or sauté the cap. You might think, “It’s just a mushroom!” But it’s almost as involved as preparing a piece of meat.
There are Blue Oyster mushrooms, which I sauté in a hot pan with oil, and the well-known Shitake mushroom, which I use to make broth. The list goes on and on.
WHERE DO YOU SOURCE THE MUSHROOMS FOR WILDFLOWER?
I get our mushrooms from a farm called Kingdom Come in Fort Lupton, Colorado. It’s right up the road from Wildflower, so we’re lucky. A cool guy named Tom Bailey grows the mushrooms. He dropped off a bin of them at my restaurant one day, and my jaw dropped to the ground. I’ve been working with him ever since.
BEST TIME OF YEAR TO ORDER THEM?
These beauties are available all year round. Tom chooses to cultivate different varieties based on the climate and weather, so any mushroom dish on the Wildflower menu is always fresh and in-season.
PERFECT DISH FOR SOMEONE ON THE FENCE ABOUT MUSHROOMS?
Our mushroom toast. We serve it on our house-made grilled focaccia with a chickpea spread. We lightly pile mushrooms on top. It's a fork and knife dish, so if you're a meat-lover who doesn't necessarily dig on mushrooms, this is an excellent dish to try. It has the same umami as meat, plus local cheese, juniper, and pickled onions.
MOST INVENTIVE WAY YOU'RE USING MUSHROOMS AT WILDFLOWER?
I’m always looking for new ways to prepare mushrooms. The most recent is a full-on mushroom salad. It’s one mushroom prepared in two different ways. First, I chiffonade (slice into long, thin strips) the stems of Chestnut mushrooms and flash fry them in locally sourced sunflower oil. Then I lightly poach the caps of the mushrooms in the mushroom's juices. To taste this dish is to experience an overload of umami. The result is always a smile.
ONCE WE’VE TRIED THE MUSHROOM DISHES AT WILDFLOWER, WHERE ELSE IN DENVER CAN WE GO FOR INTERESTING MUSHROOM DISHES?
Safta Restaurant. It’s a popular Israeli restaurant right across the South Platte River in the River North Art District. Chef Josh Gordon prepares an approachable hummus bowl with sautéed Chestnut mushrooms and wood-oven pita.
The Most Italian Burrata in Denver
Originally published on Life Stories.
Most of the produce served at Wildflower comes from local Colorado farmers. But the new LoHi restaurant goes further to source a few of its specialty menu items.
By Nick Papa
Wildflower, a new cocktail bar and restaurant in Denver’s Lower Highlands, draws its inspiration from the Western landscape—and the neighborhood’s Italian roots. Chef Will Harris sources mostly from local farms and producers to serve dishes that have a personal connection to the land. But in staying true to Wildflower’s subtle Italian influences, Harris searched thousands of miles away for the perfect burrata.
WHERE DO YOU SOURCE THE BURRATA YOU SERVE AT WILDFLOWER?
We source our burrata from Caseificio Ignalat, a farm in Italy. They specialize in fresh cheeses that are most typical of the Apulia region.
WHERE IS IT LOCATED?
In Apulia, a region in southern Italy near the Itria valley known for its olive oil and white wine production.
WHAT MAKES THIS LOCATION SO SPECIAL?
The grass in the Apulia region is very rich in mineral salts. The cows graze on this grass, making the milk and cheese unlike anywhere else in the world. Beyond the natural features of the land, cows and buffalo receive the best treatment from the farmers, who care for the animals as if they were people. They enjoy an incredibly high quality of life, which ultimately translates to the milk and cheese they produce.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO GET TO DENVER?
We fly our cheeses fresh from Italy every week. Our burrata and Mozzarella Di Bufala arrive in Denver less than 36 hours after the farmers make them.
BEST DISHES TO TRY AT WILDFLOWER?
Try the Burrata Pugliese, prepared with grilled rosemary toast, pistachio, black pepper, and olive oil.
Did you know that Travel + Leisure just named Italy their 2021 destination of the year? There’s never been a better time to discover the tastes of Italy right here in LoHi. Pair your Burrata Pugliese with a Wildflower Negroni to enjoy a socially distant aperitivo at home this winter. Head to the Wildflower website for takeout and delivery.
A Coffee Roaster’s Guide to Denver’s Lower Highlands
Originally published on Life Stories.
The Lower Highlands is home to some of the best food and drink in Denver. LoHi local and Method Coffee Roasters co-founder Alex Rawal shares his favorite neighborhood spots.
By Alex Rawal
FOR MILE HIGH VIEWS: AVANTI
There’s something for everyone at Avanti. It’s a food hall concept with burgers, arepas, and the best views of Denver from the rooftop of their unique shipping container building.
3200 N Pecos St.
FOR SMALL-BATCH COFFEE: METHOD COLLECTIVE
I started Method Collective as a community-driven concept. It’s a cafe (where you can get Method coffee, which is brewed right here in LoHi) as well as a corner grocery store, meeting space, and more. In the neighborhood, I also like Black Eye, PinWheel, and Sapro Coffee. Each is different, and all are worth trying for their unique roasts, origins, and approaches to hospitality.
2011 W 32nd Ave.
FOR CLASSIC ITALIAN: SPUNTINO
LoHi has a strong Italian presence with many authentic, family-owned red sauce restaurants. Spuntino opened nearly ten years ago as a daytime cafe and gelato shop and has since become a full restaurant. Their homemade pasta is top-notch in Denver, and their happy hour is one of the best.
2639 W 32nd Ave.
FOR LAID-BACK DRINKS: THE HIGH LONESOME
It looks like a dive bar on the outside, but this dimly-lit bar is sleek and modern on the inside. Still, it has all the classic dive bar requisites: easy beer, Miller High Life, and pool.
3360 Navajo St.
FOR A COOL BREWERY: PROST BREWING COMPANY
They do excellent German beers, and you can enjoy them outside with skyline views. My go-to is the Altbier, a not-too-sweet, not-too-bitter, German-style amber ale. I prefer smaller glasses (8–10oz), so they stay cold the whole time.
2540 19th St.
FOR A LOCAL DISPENSARY: SIMPLY PURE
Simply Pure is the only black-owned dispensary in Denver. They are wonderful people, and they know their stuff.
2000 W 32nd Ave.
FOR OUTDOOR RELAXATION: CONFLUENCE PARK
Cherry Creek and the South Platte River meet at this waterfront park. Snag an ice cream and walk the river trails taking in the views and the 19th-century brick warehouses. It’s the best way to spend an afternoon outdoors.
2250 15th St.
The Many Uses of Nantucket’s Flora
Originally published on Life Stories.
There's more to Nantucket’s flora than meets the eye. While each plant is pleasing to look at, they all have an interesting story worth telling, too. These are just a few vibrant species that will color your trip.
By Nick Papa
Thanks to conservation efforts, vast swaths of Nantucket are protected, allowing its flora (the plants that grow natively without cultivation) to flourish. Colorful plant life is on display around virtually every corner, and there’s more to it than aesthetic value. Read on to discover where you can apply, eat, and shop the island flora.
FOR APPLYING THE LOCAL FLORA: WITCH HAZEL
When Nantucket locals in Sconset came across this fragrant shrub in 1896, they likely knew what it was. In 1850, a druggist in Essex, Connecticut, started selling Hamamelis virginiana, known as witch hazel, to treat bruises, burns, and itches. You could track down the plant with its bright yellow flowers in the Coskata-Coatue Wildlife Refuge. But it’s far easier to head to Gift and Box, where you can buy local, small-batch products made with witch hazel, like After Sun Spray—the perfect way to keep skin cool and moisturized.
FOR TASTING THE LOCAL FLORA: BLUEBERRIES
Blueberries may be the most widely cultivated fruit in North America, but did you know there are five major varieties? The Vaccinium corymbosum is native to Nantucket, where the island’s damp forests and acidic soil are perfect conditions for the flowering plant. While many locals forage for berries in the wild, it’s essential to know what you’re picking. At the family-owned Moors End Farm, you can safely pick from 20 acres of berries and plenty more fresh fruits and vegetables.
If you’re seeking more than blueberry pancakes at breakfast, sip on Nantucket Craft Cocktails instead. At Cisco Brewers, you can order Triple Eight Distillery’s Nantucket Cran or Nantucket Blue vodka sodas, made with cranberries and blueberries.
FOR IMMERSING YOURSELF IN THE LOCAL FLORA: ROSEMARY
The fragrant Narcissus papyraceus (daffodil) and bristly Cirsium horridulum (thistle) are just a few of the plants you’ll find throughout the design of Life House Nantucket. With the island’s botany as our guiding spirit, we filled the house with floral-inspired textiles, artwork, and hand-painted ceramics. But the most botanical places are the guest room showers. Surrounded by custom tile work and with nourishing, plant-based Le Labo shampoo (made with fragrant rosemary leaf), you'll discover the most luxurious way to immerse yourself in the local flora.
FOR TAKING THE LOCAL FLORA HOME: BLACK-EYED SUSAN
Native Americans used the Rudbeckia hirta, or black-eyed Susan, to boost immunity and ward off everything from the common cold to infections. Today, the locals cultivate this native Nantucket sunflower to brighten their gardens. To experience one of the island’s iconic flower fields, visit Bartlett’s Farm for otherworldly rows of snapdragons, daisies, and sunflowers. The farm prepares cut flowers daily, bunched from the seasonal bloom, which they sell all over the island.
A Travel Editor’s Guide to Nantucket
Originally published on Life Stories.
To truly explore Nantucket, venture beyond its pristine beaches and admire its sumptuous hydrangeas and overgrown rose gardens. Former Food & Wine travel editor Gina Hamadey shares her favorite spots.
By Gina Hamadey
MITCHELL’S BOOK CORNER AND NANTUCKET BOOKWORKS
The island’s two independent bookstores are under the same ownership, and they are similarly excellent, filled with large selections of autographed hardcovers and Nantucket books, such as Let’s Take a Hike Nantucket and Walking Nantucket—both of which are the perfect companions to flora-filled nature strolls around the island.
54 Main Street
ERICA WILSON
This store brings the preppy trend into modern times. The brand gained acclaim with its needlepoint pillows—the ones of rose-covered cottages and hydrangea bushes make perfect Nantucket souvenirs—and now hosts collaborations with high-end American brands such as Roberta Roller Rabbit.
25 Main Street
WHALING MUSEUM
Built in 1846, this charming museum is part of the island’s historical society and integral to the community. It’s all about the dangerous 18th-century trade made famous by Herman Melville, and includes the story of the sinking of the ship Essex that served as inspiration for Moby-Dick.
13 Broad Street
VIA MARE
The stylish and cozy restaurant inside the new Greydon House inn (and on the petunia-filled veranda, if it’s warm) specializes in Venetian small plates—whipped salt cod with crispy polenta, buttered lobster finger sandwich—but also includes heartier dishes such as homemade sourdough pasta and grilled swordfish. Those who are feeling hungry (and adventurous) can try the “chef’s whim,” an omakase of sorts where $75 brings you a generous sampling of the whole menu. Some of the produce comes from the extensive garden out back—which you can tour after your meal.
17 Broad Street
CRU
Many restaurants right on the water can get away with mediocrity: The harborfront Cru avoids that trap and then some. Chef Erin Zircher applies classic French training to pristine seafood for elegant dishes such as chilled cucumber soup with peekytoe crab and yuzu, and seared scallops with creamed corn and truffle butter. The menu sidesteps fussiness, though, with its stellar raw bar and entries like a lobster roll, hushpuppies and oatmeal cream pie.
1 Straight Wharf
BROTHERHOOD OF THIEVES
The island’s coziest brew pub also has some of its tastiest food. Expect a mix of American classics (burgers, nachos, chicken pot pie) and New England hits (Quahog chowder, fish and chips). The menu has a few unexpected twists, including the (understandably) popular gochujang wings. There are 10 beers on tap, but don’t be afraid to bring the under-21 set to this family-friendly spot.
23 Broad Street
THE JUICE BAR
You can’t leave Nantucket without homemade ice cream, and The Juice Bar has some of the island’s best. A rotating selection of 30-plus flavors includes some creative, kid-catnip ones (the very blue Cookie Monster, the hilariously named Cookie Butt) and vegan options made with creamy coconut milk. Toppings go beyond sprinkles to M&Ms and nerds. There’s a nearby Nantucket-classic hydrangea bush that’s the perfect Instagram backdrop for a colorful cone.
12 Broad Street
Discover the House Built by a 19th-Century Sea Captain
Originally published on Life Stories.
Two centuries after Captain Robert Calder built his coastal retreat at 10 Cliff Road, Life House Nantucket is still a celebration of the far-flung destinations he visited and the wild island landscape he loved.
By Nick Papa
It was the fall of 1833, and a fine mist blanketed Nantucket as if to keep it warm from another chilly New England day. The waves of weightless fog didn't bother Captain Robert Calder that morning as he walked through the gray haze to survey his property at 10 Cliff Road.
Captain Calder regularly braved waves of a different kind—rough, relentless, and all too real in the open waters of the Atlantic. Not to mention the giant whales he hunted beneath the surface. While the precipitation may have been a nuisance to others, it was a rare respite for him: a moment of calm that didn't come as often as he'd like.
The captain was always on edge, vigilant to spot danger ahead. It hadn't been a decade since his unlucky friend, Captain George Pollard Jr., lost his whaler, The Essex, to a whale attack in the Pacific Ocean, leaving George and his crew stranded thousands of miles from land. He couldn’t help but wonder if a similar fate awaited him aboard his ship, The Alto.
But that morning, something changed. As the mist cleared, Nantucket’s native flora came into the captain's view. He liked the yellow bark and dark fruits of the Phellodendron amurense in the bright morning light. And the Robinia hispida shrubs, with their bristly pods swaying in the wind. So much in his life was uncertain, but as he arrived at 10 Cliff Road that day, Captain Calder knew a new story was beginning.
Centuries have passed, but the captain’s story is still unfolding at 10 Cliff Road. We talked to Tacho Elizondo, the interior designer of Life House Nantucket, about the house’s inspiration, which is heavily rooted in 19th-century design and the sensibilities of coastal New England.
THE FEDERAL ARCHITECTURE
Captain Calder constructed the house in Federal-style architecture, which was popular throughout New England following the United States' independence from Britain at the end of the 18th century. Typical features at Life House Nantucket include an entry in the center of the home and symmetrical windows on either side.
According to Elizondo, "We didn't just want to respect the existing architecture, we wanted to celebrate it." By juxtaposing fresh colors and modern House of Hackney fabrics with vintage furniture that speaks to the house's history, Elizondo helped breathe new life into the historic property without sacrificing any of its original charms.
THE ECLECTIC TREASURES
As dangerous as the captain's whaling journeys were, they were also thrilling adventures. "We wanted guests to feel an immediate sense of wonder when walking into the house," said Elizondo. Remarkable treasures, such as a saber-toothed cat runner woven in beautiful shades of gold, jade, mauve, and plum, evoke the far-flung lands the captain visited in the North Atlantic. "When we saw the saber-toothed tiger runner, it was a no brainer."
THE ISLAND BOTANY
The captain turned his home into a bed and breakfast in 1870, making it the oldest continuously operating inn on Nantucket. While ownership has changed over the centuries, the house’s spirit has remained the same. To retain integrity, Elizondo drew inspiration from a vintage key cabinet. “Each room was named after a flower that grows on Nantucket, so we decided to use this as part of the story.” Using Nantucket’s flora as a muse, Elizondo filled the property with touches of island botany, from hand-painted shower tiles to custom pendant lighting.
THE GARDENS
Rumor has it that Captain Calder met the landscape artist Frederick Law Olmstead, who lived on Staten Island, on a whaling trip to New York. In the 1850s, Olmstead visited England, where the public gardens of Birkenhead Park inspired him to write a book on the subject and later design famous spaces, including Manhattan's Central Park. Olmstead is said to have written to his friends, recommending they add private gardens to their homes for enjoyment and recreation.
Like Olmstead intended, guests have a peaceful place to rest when not out enjoying the active Nantucket social scene. According to Elizondo, “We designed these gardens with the intention of relaxation.”