Chef Will Harris Dishes on Mushrooms
Originally published on Life Stories.
When it comes to mushrooms, people either love them or fear them. Chef Will Harris, who helms the kitchen at Wildflower in Denver, says there's a mushroom dish for everyone.
By Nick Papa
There are two types of people: mycophiles, those who love mushrooms, and mycophobes, those who fear them. Will Harris, the chef of Wildflower at Life House Lower Highlands, is decidedly a mycophile. Before you write off the fungi, Harris promises there's a mushroom option for you on Wildflower’s menu.
WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO COOK WITH MUSHROOMS?
When I became a cook after high school, my mentor taught me to cook and sauté mushrooms properly. It was a mind-blowing experience. I heated a pan and threw in a bunch of mushrooms. It sounded simple. But he dumped it out and told me to start over with small batches in a super hot pan.
I still use the techniques I learned that day. I add a little bit of oil, and when I add the mushrooms to the pan, I don't salt them right away. I let them get a bit of color, and once they start to sear, I hit them with a bit of salt, fresh herbs, and shallots.
Mushrooms are great because of their richness and umami (savory taste). There are so many varieties and different ways to prepare them. Every time I "butcher" a mushroom, I discover a new way to use it.
TELL US MORE ABOUT THE DIFFERENT MUSHROOM VARIETIES AND WAYS TO USE THEM.
One of my favorites is the King Trumpet mushroom. I treat it like a steak, grilling it and then slowly roasting it. You cook the trunk one way—almost like the piece of meat. Then you can pickle or sauté the cap. You might think, “It’s just a mushroom!” But it’s almost as involved as preparing a piece of meat.
There are Blue Oyster mushrooms, which I sauté in a hot pan with oil, and the well-known Shitake mushroom, which I use to make broth. The list goes on and on.
WHERE DO YOU SOURCE THE MUSHROOMS FOR WILDFLOWER?
I get our mushrooms from a farm called Kingdom Come in Fort Lupton, Colorado. It’s right up the road from Wildflower, so we’re lucky. A cool guy named Tom Bailey grows the mushrooms. He dropped off a bin of them at my restaurant one day, and my jaw dropped to the ground. I’ve been working with him ever since.
BEST TIME OF YEAR TO ORDER THEM?
These beauties are available all year round. Tom chooses to cultivate different varieties based on the climate and weather, so any mushroom dish on the Wildflower menu is always fresh and in-season.
PERFECT DISH FOR SOMEONE ON THE FENCE ABOUT MUSHROOMS?
Our mushroom toast. We serve it on our house-made grilled focaccia with a chickpea spread. We lightly pile mushrooms on top. It's a fork and knife dish, so if you're a meat-lover who doesn't necessarily dig on mushrooms, this is an excellent dish to try. It has the same umami as meat, plus local cheese, juniper, and pickled onions.
MOST INVENTIVE WAY YOU'RE USING MUSHROOMS AT WILDFLOWER?
I’m always looking for new ways to prepare mushrooms. The most recent is a full-on mushroom salad. It’s one mushroom prepared in two different ways. First, I chiffonade (slice into long, thin strips) the stems of Chestnut mushrooms and flash fry them in locally sourced sunflower oil. Then I lightly poach the caps of the mushrooms in the mushroom's juices. To taste this dish is to experience an overload of umami. The result is always a smile.
ONCE WE’VE TRIED THE MUSHROOM DISHES AT WILDFLOWER, WHERE ELSE IN DENVER CAN WE GO FOR INTERESTING MUSHROOM DISHES?
Safta Restaurant. It’s a popular Israeli restaurant right across the South Platte River in the River North Art District. Chef Josh Gordon prepares an approachable hummus bowl with sautéed Chestnut mushrooms and wood-oven pita.
The Most Italian Burrata in Denver
Originally published on Life Stories.
Most of the produce served at Wildflower comes from local Colorado farmers. But the new LoHi restaurant goes further to source a few of its specialty menu items.
By Nick Papa
Wildflower, a new cocktail bar and restaurant in Denver’s Lower Highlands, draws its inspiration from the Western landscape—and the neighborhood’s Italian roots. Chef Will Harris sources mostly from local farms and producers to serve dishes that have a personal connection to the land. But in staying true to Wildflower’s subtle Italian influences, Harris searched thousands of miles away for the perfect burrata.
WHERE DO YOU SOURCE THE BURRATA YOU SERVE AT WILDFLOWER?
We source our burrata from Caseificio Ignalat, a farm in Italy. They specialize in fresh cheeses that are most typical of the Apulia region.
WHERE IS IT LOCATED?
In Apulia, a region in southern Italy near the Itria valley known for its olive oil and white wine production.
WHAT MAKES THIS LOCATION SO SPECIAL?
The grass in the Apulia region is very rich in mineral salts. The cows graze on this grass, making the milk and cheese unlike anywhere else in the world. Beyond the natural features of the land, cows and buffalo receive the best treatment from the farmers, who care for the animals as if they were people. They enjoy an incredibly high quality of life, which ultimately translates to the milk and cheese they produce.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO GET TO DENVER?
We fly our cheeses fresh from Italy every week. Our burrata and Mozzarella Di Bufala arrive in Denver less than 36 hours after the farmers make them.
BEST DISHES TO TRY AT WILDFLOWER?
Try the Burrata Pugliese, prepared with grilled rosemary toast, pistachio, black pepper, and olive oil.
Did you know that Travel + Leisure just named Italy their 2021 destination of the year? There’s never been a better time to discover the tastes of Italy right here in LoHi. Pair your Burrata Pugliese with a Wildflower Negroni to enjoy a socially distant aperitivo at home this winter. Head to the Wildflower website for takeout and delivery.
A Coffee Roaster’s Guide to Denver’s Lower Highlands
Originally published on Life Stories.
The Lower Highlands is home to some of the best food and drink in Denver. LoHi local and Method Coffee Roasters co-founder Alex Rawal shares his favorite neighborhood spots.
By Alex Rawal
FOR MILE HIGH VIEWS: AVANTI
There’s something for everyone at Avanti. It’s a food hall concept with burgers, arepas, and the best views of Denver from the rooftop of their unique shipping container building.
3200 N Pecos St.
FOR SMALL-BATCH COFFEE: METHOD COLLECTIVE
I started Method Collective as a community-driven concept. It’s a cafe (where you can get Method coffee, which is brewed right here in LoHi) as well as a corner grocery store, meeting space, and more. In the neighborhood, I also like Black Eye, PinWheel, and Sapro Coffee. Each is different, and all are worth trying for their unique roasts, origins, and approaches to hospitality.
2011 W 32nd Ave.
FOR CLASSIC ITALIAN: SPUNTINO
LoHi has a strong Italian presence with many authentic, family-owned red sauce restaurants. Spuntino opened nearly ten years ago as a daytime cafe and gelato shop and has since become a full restaurant. Their homemade pasta is top-notch in Denver, and their happy hour is one of the best.
2639 W 32nd Ave.
FOR LAID-BACK DRINKS: THE HIGH LONESOME
It looks like a dive bar on the outside, but this dimly-lit bar is sleek and modern on the inside. Still, it has all the classic dive bar requisites: easy beer, Miller High Life, and pool.
3360 Navajo St.
FOR A COOL BREWERY: PROST BREWING COMPANY
They do excellent German beers, and you can enjoy them outside with skyline views. My go-to is the Altbier, a not-too-sweet, not-too-bitter, German-style amber ale. I prefer smaller glasses (8–10oz), so they stay cold the whole time.
2540 19th St.
FOR A LOCAL DISPENSARY: SIMPLY PURE
Simply Pure is the only black-owned dispensary in Denver. They are wonderful people, and they know their stuff.
2000 W 32nd Ave.
FOR OUTDOOR RELAXATION: CONFLUENCE PARK
Cherry Creek and the South Platte River meet at this waterfront park. Snag an ice cream and walk the river trails taking in the views and the 19th-century brick warehouses. It’s the best way to spend an afternoon outdoors.
2250 15th St.